Friday, June 14, 2013

Ehrma-gerd! Ar lurve Jesus!

Fuck work. Let's just get that out of the way.

Got to the lake just after 5, rolled over to the beach with the 21 on my back, the Mako and the 'door under my arms. Wind looks lighter than yesterday, and it's supposed to drop—like yesterday. We'll see…

Yeah, it's fine. Some boosts, rotations etc but I'm worried the wind will go before I get a chance to use the Mako. So I swap board… what a hoot!

Do that for a bit, then the wind drops off—leaves the 10m surf boys with kites in the water, and me looping to get back to shore. Walk up the beach, watch the front come in, head back out on the Flydoor.

More silliness ensues… there's wind "up there" and down that end of the beach; it's shifted to the east. I do all kinds of flukey stuff but get increasingly paranoid about the wind dropping right off and leaving me swimming, so I call it a day.

90 minute session—not bad! Quality, not quantity today! Unlike work, which is just a mountain of shit.

Moment of the day was landing the first ever front 1080 down-loop transition :D
Mood of the session was aah rah ooh-er.
It sucks when you're just getting into the zone and the wind dies.

Weather was reported as 4 to 8 knots, gusts to 14; 26˚ at 76%.
Wind felt like 10-15… comfortably well powered.

What I learned today…
• Bottom end of the Mako Mutant is astounding!
• Carving to toe-side, then popping off the lip to switch back to heelside… roolz!
• The board carves so hard and throws such as solid wall of water :o
• It's actually quite a workout riding that board—end up breathing hard on a really fun tack.
• The sets (is that the right word?) of waves go into the crappy beach. So long as the wind is up, it's easy enough to get out…
• It *IS* possible to do hooj phat single front-spins… just not sure how :o
• It is also possible to do hooj phat triples :D
• The line extensions make it possible to catch that good air up there…
• Mako wants MOAR SPEED!
• Jesus saves!

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